All About the cane

Good Position - Bottom steady Bad Position - Bottom will move Qualities of a good cane Choose carefully

Types of Cane Thin, semi-flexible rods that have a long history as an implement of corporal punishment. They are made from a variety of materials and in range of sizes, each one of which has its own particular qualities. Softer materials, like hazel, are often very flexible and resilient. They will strike with more speed and more "cutting" capability, but because of their compressibility they strike with less overall force than a more dense material such as rattan. Some modern materials, such as fibreglass, combine flexibility with high density to produce sensations not possible with natural materials. However, most caners prefer the psychological effect of natural bamboo and rattan canes. Longer canes strike with more power and therefore require more skill and greater caution; larger diameter canes cause more of a "thud" when they strike, while thinner canes produce a sharper stinging. Larger canes are also far less likely to break the skin and cause bleeding, although they do bruise beautifully. Smaller canes will not traumatize as large an area, but they are apt to slice the skin. The Domestic Cane is straight, usually of bamboo, with a grip at one end made of a material like wound string. The Malacca Cane is relatively thick, and has a knob at one end for gripping. The Schoolmaster's Cane is also of rattan or a suitable bamboo. It is traditionally steamed or soaked, then bent at one end and allowed to dry, in order to create the characteristic curved handle. A good cane should be flexible, allowing it to bend with each stroke. If made from a natural, porous material, it should be covered with several good coats of varnish to enable effective disinfection. Length is typically between 60cm (2') and 1m (3') -- 80-90cm is most common. Longer canes (up to 115cm/42") are acceptable for experienced caners only because their use requires greater skill. A diameter of 7mm (0.25") is good for general purposes; slightly thinner for a real sting and larger (up to 20mm/0.75") for a thud. Cane Care: Store in a dry, cool place, away from sun, heat and moisture, hung vertically to keep it from developing curves and bends. Every year or so, sand the varnish from the tip of the cane, so the naked wood is exposed. Stand cane, exposed end down, in a flower vase or other water-filled container overnight, to allow the wood to absorb the water. Then varnish the tip to keep the moisture within the cane. This will make the cane last much, much longer, and will maintain its flexibility. Hints on Technique You don't have to put a lot of force behind the cane to get a powerful, energetic stroke. A natural, relatively slow swing will produce all the force you require as long as you swing properly. Use your wrist to accelerate the tip of the cane just before impact - the proper swing is very similar to a squash (racquetball) swing, not a tennis swing. There is an important reason to emphasize proper form rather than brute strength. Proper form is important in maintaining the accuracy and consistency of your strokes. These provide safety for the bottom. If your swings are all over the map and the intensity is out of control, sooner or later you will strike too hard or in an incorrect place. You could cause serious damage. Practice on an inanimate object until you develop real skill. Backhanded strokes, as one would use in tennis or squash (racquetball), can be employed as well as forehanded. With practice, you should be as proficient with either a forehand or a backhand swing. Contrary to what many people think, a clean backhand usually gives a harder stroke than a forehand. Speed of strokes can also be varied. They can be applied slowly, with lots of power and time between strokes for partial recovery, or they can be applied rapid-fire staccato. Usually, the faster you go the less power should be behind each stroke. Caning produces two forms of pain which are caused by separate parts of the stroke. The decompression caused when the cane leaves the flesh is, when delivered properly, distinct from the sensation of impact. By holding the cane down before releasing it, the two stages of pain can be further separated. A masochist bottom will appreciate the extra effort. Others will curse, and cry, and beg - maybe even simultaneously.

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